Differences Between Brow Fix Up and Lash Curl Up Laminating Systems by TM Elan (Part 1)
Differences Between Brow Fix Up and Lash Curl Up Laminating Systems by TM Elan (Part 1)
The Elan brand has 4 laminating systems: Brow Fix Up, Lash Curl Up, Supersonic, and Kera Veg. Let's explore the differences between these systems.
Brow Fix Up
This system has three components: Step 1, Step 2, and Brow Elixir. Regarding the first product, if we look at the ingredients: AQUA, CYSTEAMINE HCL, ETHANOLAMINE, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, UREA, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, SODIUM ERYTHORBATE, SODIUM SULFITE, HYDROLYZED KERATIN, XANTHAN GUM, DISODIUM EDTA, STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, DIAZOLIDINYL UREA, METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, PARFUM, LINALOOL, D-LIMONENE, GERANIOL, CITRONELLOL, the main component (restructuring agent) that participates in breaking disulfide bonds and softening the hair is CYSTEAMINE HCL (cysteamine hydrochloride). The alkali that helps open the cuticle more quickly by dissolving the lipids that bind the cuticle scales is ETHANOLAMINE (the pH of the first formulation is alkaline at H9-9.5). UREA is a component that affects the hydration of the hair and skin, and HYDROLYZED KERATIN is our protein that we partially break down during laminating, so this component will replenish the protein in our hair. Hydrolyzed means that the protein molecule is so small that it can easily penetrate the hair and fill in gaps.
Cysteamine hydrochloride is a rather slow and weak restructuring agent, so this system is not recommended for use in eyelash lamination, as well as for stiff and medium-thick eyebrows.
As for Step 2 of this system, the pH is acidic (2.5-3), and the main component aimed at forming new disulfide bonds is HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. During the process, it decomposes into oxygen and water. We can note that this same component is present in any oxidizer, so if we want to check if the second component is working, we can mix it with dye. If an oxidation reaction occurs, it means the second component is effective. If you run out of the second component, you can use an oxidizer but increase the exposure time.
Brow Fix Elixir is an oil-based complex that will seal the lipid layer of our hair. However, when using this system as care, it’s better to first use a water-based serum, Lash Plex, enriched with amino acids, to close the protein part, and then use Brow Fix Elixir.
Lash Curl UP
This system was developed for use on eyelashes but can also be used for eyebrows. It consists of Step 1, Step 2, and Lash Plex.
The main difference between the first formulation of this system and the first formulation of the previous system is the restructuring agent, which is THIOGLYCOLIC ACID. The alkalis in the first formulation are not only ETHANOLAMINE but also AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE. Thanks to the stronger restructuring agent and the two alkalis, the first formulation penetrates the cortex faster and works within it. Currently, most laminating systems on the market are based on THIOGLYCOLIC ACID, and these are medium-duration products. The care effect in the first formulation is provided by such components as HYDROLYZED KERATIN and HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN. The pH of Step 1 is alkaline (9.0-9.5).
Step 2 is based on HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. The pH of the second formulation is acidic (2.0-3.5). The last component of this preparation is PHOSPHORIC ACID, which is necessary to slow down the decomposition reaction of hydrogen peroxide in the bottle.
Lash Plex is a water-based serum, as indicated by the first component in the formulation. It is an essential product for every brow artist and lamimaker, as it contains amino acids and components aimed at moisturizing the hair and skin:
- AQUA — water;
- GLYCERIN — a component aimed at moisturizing the skin;
- PHENOXYETHANOL — a preservative that prevents the growth of microorganisms;
- PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL — an emulsifier, a component that mixes oil and water products, forming an emulsion;
- XANTHAN GUM — xanthan gum, a thickener and stabilizer;
- PANTHENOL — moisturizes and softens the skin and hair, and also accelerates the healing process;
- SODIUM PCA — a moisturizing component for the skin;
- HYDROLYZED KERATIN — a component that restores the protein structure of the hair;
- SODIUM LACTATE — often used in cosmetics as a moisturizing component for the skin;
- ARGININE — an amino acid;
- ASPARTIC ACID — a cosmetic active ingredient that is an amino acid;
- PCA — pyruvic acid, an ingredient derived from amino acids. Its main function is moisturizing;
- GLYCINE — an amino acid;
- PHENYLALANINE — one of the twenty standard amino acids found in proteins;
- ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN — a preservative with a gentle action on the skin;
- PARFUM — fragrance;
- HEXYL CINNAMAL — a flavoring additive;
- LIMONENE — has antibacterial properties.